People with wavy or curly hair always look for new products, tips, and tricks to lock in their desired look. Whether they want to blow it straight, create looser curls or maximize their tighter coils, Maya Smith, Celebrity Hair Stylist, salon owner, and creator of The Doux, the “Indie” haircare line with a cult following now available at Target, is truly the master. Here she shares her best tips for girls with curls who want to revel in their natural hair and create a style they love.

Hair Tips for Natural Curls| the battle between oil and moisture.

People must first understand that there are opposite things going on simultaneously. “Due to the shape of curly haired strands, the hair tends to be under moisturized. On the other hand, the curly-haired scalp can get very oily. Managing these opposite demands is the struggle of girls who wish to keep their curls. The key here is knowing how best to address both,” explains Maya, who led the movement for women to transition from relaxers to natural curls.

Be gentle when washing curly hair.

According to Maya, kinky, thick, coiled textures appear “tough” and strong enough to withstand heavy manipulation. “In my experience, these hair types are the most delicate and should be handled with care, she recommends.”

Hair Tips for Natural Curls| Pick your products wisely

Maya applied over two decades of research and development based on working knowledge of hair texture and listening to what people wanted. “I created The Doux™ SUCKA FREE Moisturizing Shampoo and FRESH RINSE Moisturizing Conditioner as the one-two step that delivers deep cleaning and exceptional nourishment necessary for styling.” It’s now available in Target stores, and the complete product line is available online at www.thedoux.com.

Hair Tips for Natural Curls| Prep for shampoo

Maya’s professional instructions for curl mastery begin with rinsing hair thoroughly with water for a minimum of 30 seconds. “This helps to eliminate any water-soluble product buildup, such as hair gel or heat protectant. It also helps you save shampoo! Assuming you’re shampooing in the shower, letting the water run over the hair in a downward motion helps prevent further tangling, and allows the hair shaft to swell and the curl pattern to fully rebound.” For those with extremely thick hair, Maya suggests separating hair into four sections before wetting the hair for increased manageability.

Once the shampoo is applied, Maya recommends light manipulation at the scalp, going from the head’s crown to the neck’s nape. “Squishing” the hair up toward the scalp is a no-no. “Shampooing this way can cause unforgivable tangling and matting. I recommend repeating the shampooing process at least once.”

Hair Tips for Natural Curls| and comb through like a pro

If your scalp is adequately shampooed, conditioning is easy. “This time, you’re focusing on your thirsty ends first, working upward toward the scalp. Gently detangle with a wide-toothed comb or detangling brush (our favorite is Felicia Leatherwood’s “Brush with the Best” detangling brush) before rinsing, starting at the ends, working up toward to the roots. Remember to rinse with cool water, which snaps cuticles shut, locks in moisture, makes your hair shinier and reduces frizz.”

Regarding “co-washing” or “conditioner washing,” Maya equates the popular trend of washing your clothes with fabric softener. “In my experience, co-washing causes build-up on the hair, coating the cuticle and impairing the hair’s natural ability to absorb water. Oils, waxes, and product residue harden on the hair shaft, making it more brittle and less porous over time. When the hair can no longer effectively absorb water, the elasticity of the hair is compromised, leaving the hair “crunchy” and stiff, where it is more likely to break. The result is hair that feels dry and brittle, no matter what product you use to moisturize it,” explains Maya.

One of the things Maya Smith and her team of stylists are known for is their ability to restore hundreds of their clients’ curls simply by getting them to trade in the co-wash for a gentle, pH-balanced moisturizing shampoo, like The Doux’s SUCKA FREE, which properly cleanses hair of product residue. “Once you have the hair thoroughly clean, it “drinks” up the necessary amount of moisture and returns to its natural softness,” Maya clarifies.

Avoid alcohol and kick the crunch to the curb.

Styling products high in alcohol give curls a crunchy feel.  They suck up every last bit of moisture.  Hairspray tends to contain the most alcohol, while gels, mousses, and anything that provides hold or lift come in second. “I recommend water-soluble gels that don’t feel sticky on your skin, and aerated mousses or foams that resemble beaten egg whites, to give hair fullness, control, and non-brittle curls,” Maya says.

She adds that she created The Doux so it can be used on hair that is worn curly or straight. “Our clients purchase one set of products and apply them differently to achieve the style they want. If you’re rocking curly hair today, you’re using The Doux’s Mousse Def and Bonita Afro Balm for softness and definition, and The Light for shine. If you’re wearing a blowout, you’re still using the same products, but applying them less liberally, and using the shine mist as a heat protectant. It’s super simple and easy to follow once you’ve seen the results each of them deliver,” Maya explains.

 Blow-Dry with a diffuser or hooded dryer

Maya’s first choice for curly styles is to air dry. “If you don’t have the time to air dry then dry with a diffuser or hooded dryer on a low heat setting.  A regular blow dryer nozzle disrupts the curl pattern and focuses hot air on one small section at a time while a diffuser, dries curls evenly for a full, uniform look,” she explains.

Maya recommends consistently applying a heat-protecting product, then flipping your head upside down using a diffuser at the roots and mid-length, making sure to dry the area thoroughly to lock in volume. “It’s important to leave the ends for last and leave them only semi-dry. Air drying the ends is your best option.”

Care for the curls you were born with!

About Maya Smith:

Maya Smith is an International Master Stylist and Founder of The Doux Salon and haircare line now available in Target. With over two decades of styling experience, Maya dedicated two decades to cracking the code on curl care, maintenance, and expert styling. Maya is the best when it comes to caring for one’s natural hair and styling it.

 While still in high school, Maya got her hair-cutting license and graduated from beauty school. Soon after graduating high school, Maya began following her passion and worked as an assistant for celebrity stylist Tracy Johnson. She learned from Johnson and progressed as a hair stylist for celebrities and entertainers. Years later, the military wife would relocate to Germany, where Maya opened up her first salon, The HoneyComb, a mecca for textured hair care for women from all over Europe, The UK, and Africa. Maya’s unique system of textured hair styling sparked the development of The DOUX® hair care products, first launched overseas and distributed throughout Germany, France, Italy, and the Netherlands. 

 

Currently, Maya leads a carefully selected team of stylists at The DOUX® Salon in Macon, Georgia, and on Christmas Eve 2017, celebrated the arrival of The DOUX® in Target stores nationwide. Maya Smith, wife, mom of 5, and savvy businesswoman, is an example for women of color and all women who believe their gifts can impact the world, striving for entrepreneurial endeavors with grace, ease, and hustle.