What was the big take away from the recently concluded New York Fashion Week showing of Spring/Summer 2019 collections? Actually, there were several takeaways – some great, some, not so much. I entered this season with an open mind, knowing that there will be three tiers of designers presenting their collections. First, they are only a few US designers who would present true, classic, American style on their runways. Secondly, the middle tiers are the new, up and coming trendsetters, all bombarded with influences. These are the thirsty ones, who are fighting to make it to the top tier. Then there is the third tier of scrappy kids who may have lots of money to do a show, but no sense of direction. I decided to focus on the first two tiers, even at their level, they were not void of flaws.

ON TREND
Overall, there were lots of colors, Frills, fringes, color-blocking, pink, fro-fro, florals galore, sheer and pinker. There was not one `stand-out’ trend that we can say `this is the look for the new season,’ but, several options were put on the table. Plus, the inclusivity of everyone getting a chance to shine – models of all shapes, color and sizes were seen during Fashion Week. It was sometimes an open book, where all were invited to read.

TOM FORD opened the Spring 2019 Season with a grand premiere at the Park Avenue Armory. Tom is truly one of the few masters at his craft – a true American designer whose distinctive style stands the test of the time. Everything he showcased was refined and ladylike. His pencil skirts and beautifully draped dresses that hit just around the knees, some finished with fringed hemlines looked like a glamorous throwback from an era gone by, but yet was Fresh and modern. Faux crock Jackets, lame’ jacquard blazers, and sculptured bustiers were dusted throughout the collection. Fearless and Ferocious were the two words that described Tom Ford salute to ladylike, powerful and strong women. My standout moment was when supermodel Joan Smalls blazed down the catwalk in a sculpted leopard print blouse with a contrasting, easy Jacket over a fully fringed long skirt.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA with designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia showed a beautiful collection that paid homage to a tropical vacation. Think balmy Caribbean nights with bright colors, wearing a frill and aflutter, here and there, for a reggae or salsa dance on the beach. Shown on the terrace of Spring Place Studio on Varick Street, downtown Manhattan, which was the main venue for NY Fashion Week, this collection is definitely carrying on the Oscar de la Renta tradition of fine elegance.

ZIMMERMAN Showed some of the coolest clothes of the season. The Australian house unveiled a cohesive collection that featured eye-catching white cotton dresses and a scattering of Baroque prints. Colorful paisley print mini dresses with long fluttery sleeves and dramatic peek-a-boo cutouts, alongside mix print Maxi dresses were all inspired by`Number 96′ made for a Boho-chic – free-spirited collection, that saw some ten new and noted Black models take their turn on the runway.

RODARTE chose the Marble Cemetry, downtown Manhattan for their `Welcome back to New York’ show (they Showed in Paris last season) Models tipped out in the pouring rain, which gave a creepy vibe considering the venue. But, the Clothes were absolutely gorgeous. Designers Kate and Laura Mulberry presented the softest and elegant, beautiful and altogether ultra-feminine clothes for the upcoming season.

MICHAEL COSTELLO brought the heat to the catwalk with his “Gitana” collection. Overheated Latino dames and damsels charged down the catwalk in flaming reds, oranges, bursts of bright florals or nothing at all – like just the leather harness worn by one of Michael’s `Body Boys.’ Oh! not to mention the two jeweled bikinis that came out on the muscular men. Michael said, “Gitana is the story of perseverance and family life, laughter, and triumph through the Roma culture.”

SON JUNG WAN came forward with a spirited collection – Her strongest In years. With the theme `Dramatic Move’ this designer was able to balance the color and bloom of a romantic garden, with a modern-day brilliance that highlights the boldness and details with Holographic fabrics. Always a master of mixing and matching the most unusual fabrics, Son Jung Wan paired floral lace with sequins. She clashed bold color combinations like Dandelion and Fuchsia Rose, Green flash and Poppy Red. All came dancing down the runway with loads of white and silver, spiced with a series of gunmetal blue, black and white stripes and plaids.

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO was the star of his delightful collection, shown In the ornate Gotham Hall In New York’s garment district, which used-to-be the hub of New York Fashion before Fashion Week was born. Christian has become New York’s `Fashion Darling’ as he was one of the first to include curvy women on his runway as well as for the Red Carpet. This season was no exception, with supporters like Whoopi Goldberg and Cynthia Nixon among his front row guests, Christian presented 68 looks in a Hawaiian themed show. Floral print wrap skirts over leopard print top bold black and white prints and a boy modeling a sheer leopard catsuit raised eyebrows. For evening, Christian sent out Voluminous cocktail dresses, frilly tiered chiffon and tulle dresses and big ballgowns. There were sharp white pantsuits, lots of lemon yellow ensembles and exaggerated peplum dresses completed the mise-en-scene. When asked about actress and political activist Cynthia Nixon being present at his show, he told the media: “I think what she is doing is also what I am trying to do. We’re trying to support all these different types of people, cultures, and women, and, I wanted to put it out there and support her.”

PYER MOSS designer Kerby Jean Raymond had the fashion crowd travel to Brooklyn backroads, to the Weeksville Heritage Center for an outdoor showing of his Spring 2019 line of conscious clothing. The steady rainfall did not stop the all-Black cast of models from pacing carefully along a natural stone and grass wet walkway, which doubled as a catwalk, wearing bold color garments inspired by the artist, Derrick Adams. The wonderful prints and flowing Caftan-inspired looks were a fresh, modern take on wearable fashion. Kerby chose this location because of its historical significance. The Weeksville district in Brooklyn was founded and developed by Black people in 1833, led by Mr.James Weeks. The designer wanted to bring attention to the history and symbolism of that area in Brooklyn, he even started the show with the appearance of a gospel choir. “Our hope is to continue to challenge traditional narratives of minority groups in this country, and will tell uplifting stories within our work, which encourages inclusion,” said the designer. According to his press notes – `Pyer Moss Spring 2019 collection created a world devoid of the angst of racism and imagined what Black American life would be like if it were had been left untouched, unmolested and unbothered – this whole narrative, the clothes only scratch the surface.’

THE FINALE’

Finally, I wanted to bring attention to the MARC JACOBS – RIHANNA conflama that took place on the last night of New York Fashion Week. Marc Jacobs always have the last show of the season, which gives him the honor of the `Grande Finale’ ‘ to close out Fashion Week. SO, why did Rihanna’s “people” decided to show her Puma/Fenty lingerie line at 9 pm at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, directly after Marc’s 8 pm show at the Armory in Manhattan. SO Marc pulled the ultimate. He held all the editors, buyers, guests and celebrities hostage at his venue, for an hour and a half before starting his show – something about the clothes were on a truck that was stuck in traffic! Several editors bolted, some had to catch planes to go to Europe for the start of the European collections, others tried to make it to Brooklyn, but it still would have been impossible to see Rihanna’s show. Those who stayed were tired and could not make it to Brooklyn to see the Rihanna Puma/Fenty line. Who’s right…who’s wrong? It’s fashion! With all of the beauty, creativity, and glamour – Fashion is a dirty game…play on if you dare.