It’s the new fashion reality. If you had told me in February 2020 that I would be covering the Fall 2021 collections from the comfort of my own home, curled up on my couch with pajamas or sweats on, I’d deem you as plain crazy. Well, the reality is – that’s exactly what I’ve been doing for the current fashion season. All of the designers presented virtual shows; either by way of a short film, a parade of models somewhere like in an empty studio, or a simple collection of photos (lookbook) to the press for our scrutinization. Not at all like the glamorous, runway spectaculars that we’ve come to know and love over the years.

Honestly, it worked for some designers, but in general, it was quite boring watching some designers struggle to create something worthwhile. The challenge was to be able to create something that’s sustainable during this pandemic (yes, we are still in it). But for the Fall 2021 collections that we just completed, some designers showed hopefulness, for a new beginning. The key was to unlock the creativity for ease and opulence in fashion, for the opening of new world order. 

There were some moments locally and from “across the pond” where we saw some great potential coming out of London and Milan. But let’s deal with what was beautiful on US soil. In a wonderful ode to elegance, fine creativity, and beauty, LA-based fashion designer KEVAN HALL presented a short film that he directed and created. “I got the directing bug, and now I want to do this every season,” remarked the designer. The film entitled “Together Again”  according to Kevan, conveyed the message of how wonderful it would be to get together again after this time of trauma, loss, and heartache. The collection film features a small cadre of beautiful models hanging out in, and around a lavish Los Angeles hilltop home. Jeweled gowns, feminine party dresses cinched at the waistline and flaring into `twirling’ skirts, plus, lacy treats and flowing chiffon ensembles with delicate embellishments highlighted this collection. 

Another designer in a playful, yet fashion-forward mood was New York’s FREDRICK ANDERSON who had his cast of models parade around an empty warehouse. Titled “Rebirth” Frederick upgraded his ultra-feminine silhouette with voluminous pants and puffy jackets. Lace blouses came under slick jackets with huge luxurious scarves. He showcased elegant pantsuits for the busy executive woman, who still has to move about the city between Zoom meetings and virtual business calls. “Since I was about 15 years old I wanted to come to New York,” remarked the designer who formerly ran the House of Douglas Hannant. “…just as I’ve had many `rebirths’ so will New York – the city I love.”

The open top of a double-decker tourist bus was one point of attraction for designer CAROLINA HERRERA’S collection movie. Designer of the house, WES GORDON created whimsical, womanly gowns and dresses, made for a lady who will be hosting parties and attending galas once the city opens back up. Swirls of black and white polka-dots, elegant silk gowns with jeweled highlights, and wide free-flowing skirts were the order of the day. This magnificent collection was a tribute to the city that never quits. The designer partnered with New York Forever and donated funds to New York Cares, an organization dedicated to its volunteer network, providing food to needy New Yorkers and forging meaningful connections with isolated populations. 

Hollywood actress ROSARIO DAWSON and her partner ABRIMA ERWIAH who’s popular fashion line STUDIO 189 is growing rapidly also showed a collection film featuring models dancing in the midst of their production studio, with their workers still on sewing machines. Among the standouts were long, elegant cotton tunics for men and a colorful multi-tiered skirt of many colors in four/five flounces from waist to ankles.  GABRIELA HEARST who dressed First Lady Dr. Jill Biden during the Inauguration festivities showed a stunning floor-length wool, cape coat in her Fashion Week virtual presentation.

Meanwhile over at PROENZA SCHOULER where new IMG model ELLA EMHOFF, step-daughter of Vice President Kamala Harris, made her fashion show debut, stole the show in their black cut-away trouser suit. Haitian-born, New York-based designer VICTOR GLEMAUD, the King of Knitwear, who is a former CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Finalist, presented a look-book of his fresh new knits. In tones of black and white, Victor presented stripe ensembles, including sharp, cuddly body-hugging tops and some dangerous hot pants. 

Across the pond, at Milan Fashion Week, designer MIUCCIA PRADA and RAF SIMONS inspired by the idea of change and transformation, hit the mark with lush evening shapeless overcoats – faux-fur on one side and all-sequin paillettes on the other. Black shift dresses overprinted bodysuits made an appearance, as did Miuccia’s signature “sliding-off-the-shoulder” puffy coats and jackets. The models stomped on colorful shag rugs, moving from one room to another without anything and anybody else in sight, in a simple and effective collection film directed by film-maker LEE DANIELS.

In London, there is definitely a buzz on some young British upstarts who ruled the roost. First, there was the collection of 25-year-old MAXIMILLIAN DAVIS. Born in Trinidad, he brought a definite 60s reggae flavor, British West Indian party vibe to his collection – striped trousers, colorful midriffs, batwing sleeve jackets, and tight shirts. He said that growing up in London his neighbors were from all cultures: Indian, Latino, Africa, and learning from all those, he’s fused it all with his own, bold Caribbean flavor.  Singer Rihanna and ASAP Rocky are already wearing his creations. 

Also hitting the London Fashion charts is 29-year-old JAWARA ALLEYNE who is from Jamaica, raised in the Cayman Islands and Jamaica. Jawara graduated from the prestigious MA fashion program at Central Saint Martin’s in London. For Fall 2021, this young designer explored Caribbean mythology in order to rethink notions of modern masculinity. Themed “The Renegade” his virtual offering consisted of tattered, sleeveless tops layered with handmade crochet vests, one over an electric blue `liquid’ baggy trousers. He experimented with gender-bending looks which Jawara revealed as the story of “A new man.”