New York Fashion Week Men’s, in New York City, went almost unnoticed by the major buyers and editors. Just as concerning, the line-up of designers was a bunch of relative newcomers in the design world, as far as name recognition was concerned. Casting the models was another issue which needs to be addressed. Casting a crew of very young men who looked fresh out of middle school, or a castaway of downtown, teenage skate-boarders was a total miss-step. Apart from being borderline twigs, the clothes totally overpowered the models who seemed completely out of their element on most of the runways.

NIHL is the line by NEIL GROTZINGER, who just last year graduated from the Parson’s School of Design MFA Program. In his much anticipated “Subservient Authorities” Neil showcased mountains of creativity using feminine techniques, scuba references, hand embroidery and second-skin sportswear techniques. Dramatic leather harness tops were paired with one-leg tights. A chain mail top was paired with trousers made from a metallic tarp. One trouser was split up the thigh and etched in delicate hand embroidery. Neil, a native of Colorado said his 14 piece collection had a queer vibe to it. Neil told vogue.com “Seeing the response especially from the queer community to the work that I was doing, made me want to keep the message going. A feeling like there was something to say, that there was a message behind the clothing, beyond it just being beautiful and tactile, that there was a purpose behind it, is what drives me and makes me want to do it.”

Julian Woodhouse launched his menswear fashion line in 2014 during a presentation staged at Chelsea Piers Studio. A former Army Captain, whose parents were both in the Army, was based in South Korea, Julian would sneak off to model castings in Seoul, where his interest in designing his own fashion line sparked. Julian met and married his now muse and creative partner, Kirill Kabachenko, and, they re-branded the line, The new `Wood House Army’ was launched with an 11 piece collection this week, during NY Fashion Week Men’s. He zeroed in on graphic and slogan prints. A vermillion colored trousers came down the catwalk with the word “light” dancing down the side. The word “calm” was plastered on a hip bomber jacket. Was he making a political statement? It was noted that the designer wanted to address the problems plaguing the world today. Whether this designer achieved that, is left to be seen.

Her long association with Levi’s jeans showed through in this collection with several versions of denim in oversized trousers, shirts, and long duster coats. Her color story was based on the burst of pinks and blues shown in her collection. Feng showed lots of leg in her collection which was clearly unisex. A pair of pink shorts teamed with a sheer white shirt looked crisp, alongside her dramatic cut-out tops, on men.

This line designed by ROBERT GELLER was all about the trench coat. Shown in a variety of colors, it was the staple item that was paired with shorts, easy T’s and sweatpants in a modern cut. There were lots of layers and oversized everything. Snap front jackets over tailored knee shorts and billowing shirts worn with bandana kerchiefs around the neck completed the collection.

Sports was on the mind of this Copenhagen based designer as he released his Spring 2019 menswear. Specifically soccer, and with the World Cup season in full swing, it was a well-played move with lots of oversized football shorts and jerseys, worn with odd colored socks to the knees and bucket hats. Come to find out, Willy actually collaborated with the Danish Soccer team on the collection.

Showed one of the more wearable, practical and refined collections of the season. Clean cotton pairings in pastel colors conveyed the designer’s message of simplicity. Todd presented hot yellow pants, paired with plaid shirts, nautical styled shorts with striped polo shirts and knee shorts with a big Nautical flavor, topped by lush bucket hats.

ALSO ON BOARD

Some of the other names that surfaced this season for New York Fashion Week Men’s, included; BODE and his Indian inspired collection. JAHNKOY showed a wild mash-up of prints on a crew of street dancers. HECLO’s male/female looks for men and a sprinkling of fashion ideas from designers; THADDEUS O’Neil, N HOLLYWOOD, ABASI ROSBOROUGH, LANDLORD, DAVID HART and DYNE.