Chanel couture showcased an unapologetically feminine display. Moreover, this proved that ‘coquette’ still reigns supreme.
Chanel’s autumn-winter 2024-25 haute couture collection, which took place at the Palais Garnier, was its first since announcing the departure of creative director Virginie Viard.
Known to be a haven of creative freedom, the opera house was the ideal stage to exhibit the collection, with its history and role in fashion seeping throughout. The show celebrated disciplines of beauty and patience as models took to the runway in delicate ruffles and rich embellishments, affirming the longevity of the “coquette aesthetic.”
The collection indulged in tradition, harking back to its heyday with Fifties silhouettes in dresses and peplums, evocative of a Chanel icon, Marilyn Monroe.
Additionally, the collection features classic shapes and modest necklines, with avant-garde layerings such as capacious capes and draped overcoats. The use of facades encouraged us to question what lies behind the curtain for future looks under new creative direction.
Each look featured an exquisite bow in the model’s hair, embodying a child-like innocence. Chanel’s use of embellishment, rich embroidery, and voluminous ruffles created a grand, romantic, and feminine collection.
Drop waists and skirt suits evocative of Jackie K featured heavily. Embossed in decadent jewels and supple tweed, the collection didn’t stray far from its roots. Chanel brought it back to reality, playing with hardwearing and clashing textures. These include patent leathers, beaded mesh, tasseled patches, and wool.
Furthermore, the model of the moment, Angelina Kendall, notably rounded out this ode to the late princess, evoking a time when fashion protocol was disrupted. Perhaps that’s what we expect from Chanel’s new creative direction.
