I went into covering this season’s New York Fashion Week with a clear intent to highlight the collections of the fresh, new flavor of our designers of color. Of course I salute the “old guard” that usually dominates the mainstream press. They do what they do and are seasoned pros, everybody knows about them and sometimes are very comfortable in their lane. We will feature some of the established legends in a later report. Today, it’s all about giving the spotlight to some new names on the roster that you need to know. 

CESAR GALINDO

is the premier Latin designer of Mexican descent, who’s had a 20 year career in the business roster. Now on his own, with a newly founded fashion brand named `CZAR by CESAR GALINDO, his line, shown as the leading designer for Times Square Fashion Week, was bursting with energy and vivid color. There were his famous stripes in rainbow colors shown on an elegant gown as well as a flared mini dress. Jeweled fringe dresses, feminine flares, swing minis and soft balloon skirts were some of his showstoppers. Cesar’s celebrity models included Loren Larosa, a correspondent on TMZ, who modeled a body hugging floral knee length dress. Taylor Crawford, the willowy daughter of gospel singer Yolanda Adams (who was seated front row in the audience) modeled Cesar’s soft chiffon, pinched waisted dress with floral intervals. Akoi Lee the tall elegant daughter of Kimora Lee and Russell Simmons graced the catwalk in a floral velvet number. Cesar Galindo has also been named as the Creative Director for Kimora Lee Simmons’ new BABY PHAT line, launching this December.

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SUKEINA by OMAR SALAM

revealed a stunning collection, shown as an installation in an ornate suite at the Park Lane hotel, high above New York’s Central Park. The gilded mirrors and dazzling gold chandeliers were no match for Omar’s breathtaking creations. Omar said he was inspired by the Bantu tribes of Africa. They put together bits and pieces of all kinds of unused materials like pieces of lace, buttons, jewels, knitting, feathers, net and silk to make marvelous patterns. Omar used this tradition to repurpose his unique Spring/Summer 2022 collection. There were memorable black jersey dresses etched in ostrich feathers, a selection of hot red dresses highlighted by pocket effects in strips of velvet with jeweled details, precisely crafted knit dresses in bold color combinations and a slew of cosy jersey sweater dresses that were color blocked and enhanced by jeweled lace bands. “I wanted to show joy and fun in bold color, coming out of what we’ve all been through with the pandemic….some brightness and joyfulness in fashion.” noted the designer.

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EDWING D”ANGELO

took over the sidewalk in front of his Harlem Boutique, making it into a block-long runway for his Spring/Summer 2022 collection. But there were some ‘see now buy now’ garments that you could have bought and worn immediately this season. Edwing knows his customers, and catered to their eccentric needs. Lots of black foille etched in danger orange. Sexy mini’s with flowing trails, sharply tailored men’s car coats and dramatic catsuits for men and women made up the bulk of his collection.

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GLORIA LEE

showed off her elegant women’s line outdoors, in the heart of Times Square, a perfect location for her windswept cocktail shift dresses in cool pastels. According to program notes, Gloria’s mission was ‘to deliver joy, style and personality to everyone in the world and on Earth.’ Seems like a big order, but viewing her beautifully made garments, you get the feeling of love and happiness, because of the easy flow and comfort level displayed by her models as they floated by Gloria said; ” Each and every garment  was designed with the purpose of highlighting women’s innate elegance, beauty and love for all.”Apart from the simply beautiful clothes, the big take-away from Gloria Lee is that she uses compostable fibers, collaborating with domestic manufacturers, and embodying production processes – Zero-wastes pattern making and up-cycled fabrics that are least harmful to our ecosystem.  

KEVAN HALL

from California blazed through New York with a showing that defined his style of classic elegance. Cool and easy was his theme as some of the season’s sensible clothes took centerstage. Cool swingy dresses with volume in the flared skirts were timely. A long, tight, green evening skirt was belted and featured a feminine white shirt on model Coco Mitchell. Last season, instead of a runway show, Kevan showed a fashion movie of his collection which he wrote and directed. It highlighted a group of friends getting together after the pandemic. 

CARLTON JONES

always bring a laid back vibe to his catwalk. His whole concept of “Resort is not a destination, it’s a feeling,” could not be more evident than his new collection. Everything flowed with a breezy Caribbean energy. His fluid jersey dresses can easily go from beach cover-up to a cute seafood dinner at the rooftop restaurant. Aoki Lee (the stunning daughter of Kimora Lee and Russell Simmons) modeled a flowing orange hostess ensemble, featuring a mini dress effect in the front and a dramatic floor length robe in the back.

DAVID ROLLE

definitely brought his Bahamian flavor to New York, with his `HOUSE OF RAPHELITA’ line also showing at the Times Square Fashion Week venue. His all-white collection was highlighted by delicate laces and sheer cottons in loosely fitted tent dresses and tunics. A dramatic white eyelet gown, with long puffed sleeves was modeled by his muse Shenae Stratchan. Contrasting islet pants and bare midriffs, alongside a fitted islet dress with a swirling cross-body frill, were among his catwalk standouts.    A cadre’ of other designers of color who showed during New York Fashion Week included: CHARLES HARBISON (by appointment only) SERGIO HUDSON, CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS, LA QUAN SMITH, DUR DOUX, VICTOR GLEMAUD, FREDERICK ANDERSON, KENNETH NICHOLSON and JONATHAN HAYDEN.