Everyone is screaming for sustainability, organic, eco. “We should be wearing organic cotton, hemp, bamboo, and Tencel.” said an upset fashionista as she exited one show at Spring Studios because she felt the designer was not sensitive to environmental issues in creating her collection. Yes, it would be nice if all of the designers heed to the call, but that was not the case during New York Fashion Week. Here’s some of what caught our attention as we navigated our way through the 100 plus designers, who showcased their Fall/Winter 2020 collections.
Is one designer who stays in her lane and is not bothered or influenced by what the “others” are doing. In a season where there’s a cloud of confusion of which season is coming down the catwalk, Nicole is one of the designers who stayed true to Fall and winter clothes. A well constructed black leather coat came down the catwalk with a 70s bell bottom wool trousers. Great leopard print coats with fur collars, shown with flat knee-high boots looked right for the season. Car coats in blue plaids, floral silk-chiffon dresses under faux-fur coats and a series of black velvet dresses festooned with jewels, fitted into the `Fashion Realness’ category. Nicole presented her signature rose print velvet dresses, as well as her sharp pinstripe jacket decorated with little emblems. The designer updated her white shirt with three-quarter puffed sleeves and double row buttons down the front, worn over slinky black leather tights.
High necklines clinched waistlines with sashed belts, cycle shorts and bomber jackets were the order of the day. There were also Japanese inspired crepe dresses with trendy ruffles and flounces. Creative Director of the line MANAKO MAEDA really brought the drama to the runway. She partnered with young tennis star Naomi Osaka whose capsule collection was included in the Adeam line. Osaka, who was perched front row of the show told reporters backstage that she always loved sketching and sent Manako a bunch of sketches and the collaboration began. CHRISTIAN SIRIANO The Project Runway coach and fashion‘s new darling transformed the Spring Studios show space into a pink palace. Two huge sculptured hands anchored the runway. The movie “Birds of Prey” inspired Christian for his sexy collection of glamorous dresses, daring cold-shoulders and seductive skirts slashed all the up to the point of no return. He showed them in all sizes of all body types. Christian said: “I like to dress people of all walks of life, from my sister to the Pop-star, to the curvy models on the runway for the first time…Every woman can be her own Superhero, and should work her assets to the hilt, using clothes as an empowerment tool.”
It is the new `Coat Lady’ of New York Fashion Week. She showed the best coats and warn weather wear to rave reviews – kudos to embracing Fall/winter to the max. Easy, warm knit dresses came under big Puffer coats and jackets worn with tall suede boots. A double-breasted Black wool wrapped coat was tied at the waistline and worn over a shiny kilted dress. Vivienne showed a slew of big coats of all kinds; fur, leather, you name it, all over her signature narrow pants with curved-scalloped hemlines, decorated with silver studs.
Wes Gordon has been designing Carolina Herrera’s line for the past few seasons (two years) is truly getting a grip on the creative aspect of this legendary line, benefitting their old grand customers and bringing in the new, young breed of socialites who love the classic flair and refined elegance of this House. His vision for the Fall; “Grand Gesture” shown at The Shed in New York Hudson Yards, the show was a symphony of lavish colors, exuberant ruffles, and flounces, sharp suits and the signature wrapped belts with tasseled ends. Model Kyla Ramsey wore the show-stopper yellow floor-length number with voluminous puffed sleeves with green boots. A bold black and yellow print dress in loose proportions came in long and short dress forms. Long and short capes with the thin leather belts and tassels were key pieces in the collection. This was also the place to see all of the brand new Black model girls walk the catwalk; ACHENRIN MADIT, SHANELLE NYASIASE, ANNIBELIS BAEZ, and AJOK – along with season’s regulars: KYLA RAMSEY, LINEISY MONTERO, MANUELA SANCHEZ, and BLESNYA MINHER.
Autumn shades and cool neutrals paved the way for Jason Wu’s 70s themed Fall/winter offering. Abstract print and floral print dresses, cable print sweaters all looked cozy, comfortable and wearable for the season. You cannot forget Jason’s beautiful double-faced wool-cashmere coats.
For her New York Fashion Week big debut at Spring Studios, new designer Tia Adeola, who was born in New York to parents from Nigeria impressed the audience as one with great promise. A diamond in the rough, recognized by wearers of her designs including Gigi Hadid and Sza, said her aim with her namesake line was to make wearable art for women to rewrite history, through the lens of fashion to include people of color in classical visual narrations they’ve often been left out of, and to pave a new future by empowering women in their community. Tia has an ongoing partnership with Nike and is involved with Teen Vogue’s Generation Next and 21 Under 21 Programs. She’s already been featured in ID Magazine, Vogue, Glamor and Paper Magazines. Tia was raised in London but now based in New York. Her show was highlighted by sheer beaded gowns and pant ensembles. Puffy leg-o-mutton sleeves, frilly dresses and a long-sleeved knit sweater over a dazzling fringe orange wrap skirt framed the collection. Tia ended with a group of sexy brides all in sheer.
This label features the best in Korean design. First on the catwalk were the creations of LEE CHUNG CHUNG (LOE) who showed a new way to do shoulders and sleeves. Next up was LEYII who introduced very refined, layered tunics over white long-sleeved sweaters. There were lush fabrics cut in new and innovative ways to form coats and trousers. Beautiful fabrication in mild colors like beige, sand, and grey came in jackets and parkas, all cut and crafted in loose easy shapes and a clean silhouette. Modern menswear was the nucleus of IISE, the next featured designer. It was all about the color black with splashes of white here and there that looked ink stains. Loose hooded coats and a new take on cargo pants, featuring crazy tassel placements, were key components in this collection.