Just listening to Iman, Naomi Campbell, and Bethann Hardison, you know that there is a special kinship between these legendary ladies. They’ve been close friends for a very long time, so when the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET) staged a virtual conversation – “The Atelier with Alina Cho” we tune in, as @Bethann Hardison model advocate @Naomi Campbell, model, activist, and philanthropist and @Iman model, author, and entrepreneur, share their personal journey, racial diversity in fashion, the current moment and their hopes for the future. 

A FIRSTThis was the first MET Virtual Atelier, as Andrew Bolton, Curator in Charge of the Costume Institute of the MET said in his introduction. He said he’d met Ms. Hardison at a luncheon that the MET hosted in 2011 to honor the extraordinary women of color who changed the face of fashion as we know it while modeling at the famous Battle of Versailles, a designer’s showcase that pitted French fashion designers against American designers. Alina Cho, CBS Sunday Morning Correspondent served as the moderator of this panel of fashions icons. It really was one of those intriguing conversations between close friends who are also associates at the top of their game in the fashion business. 

BETHANN HARDISON talked about her beginnings, working with designer Stephen Burrows in his New York showroom. She remembers Iman coming in for a fitting and had difficulties putting on the clothes. “This was in 1975, she was so nervous, it was like her first `go-see’ she’d never worn heels before. The other models had no respect for her because there was a lot of controversy around her.” When Iman arrived in the US, it was claimed that she was discovered by famed photographer Peter Beard herding cattle in Africa. The American models were angry because they thought, `Why is there such a big deal made over this new model from Africa when there were several beautiful Black American models looking for work.’ Bethann recalled: “Iman couldn’t get her shoes on, so I went over and helped her. That’s when I looked up and said `You do understand everything they are saying?’ She said `yes’ and that started the friendship.” Bethann was Iman’s maid-of-honor when she married rock star David Bowie in 1992.

THE WALKAlina inquired about the famous `Battle of Versailles’ in France and the models `dance’ on stage. Bethann clarified; “We didn’t dance, it was all choreographed. I was always a strong walker, it was how I presented myself. I walked with such defiance. It’s how I walked that changed the moment. At the end of our presentation, the French audience went wild with screams and applause and threw their programs in the air. The American models and designers went in as the underdogs, but emerged triumphantly.”     

THE START OF THE CHANGESince that historic Versailles moment, Bethann has been an advocate for Black models. She founded and ran her own agency Bethann Management,’ for many years. She recently formed the `Design Hub’ to help Black designers. Bethann started The Black Girls Coalition in 1988 and it has grown to become the watchdog organization for the fashion industry. “We tried to integrate models of color. In 2013 I wrote a letter to the international fashion community in London, Paris, Milan, and New York, calling them out for not using Black models. I called names. It got major attention and things started to change.” 

NAOMI CAMPBELL, who was discovered at 14 years-old wearing her school uniform in her London hometown said when she started there were a substantial number of Black girls working…”But in the middle of my career, I was the token Black model, I felt alone. A lot of people thought that was what I wanted. That’s not what I wanted.” Iman echoed Naomi’s sentiment, “When I started there were a lot of girls. In 2003 there were none of us. It was like the blonde leading the blonde. There was non-existence of a black face or a black on the runway. It took me by surprise.” Iman, a mother of two daughters said that when there are no representations of yourself to look at, it makes young Black girls feel not worthy. “It makes young Black girls feel that they don’t matter – that they are not relevant.”

IMAN talked about her rocky beginning; “I had to learn quickly. My first shoot was with Vogue magazine. When I arrived on set, the make-up artist asked if I brought my own foundation. They did not have my shade of foundation. When I looked in the mirror I looked grey. Thank God the pictures were black and white, and that’s what saved my career. Black and white photos – they hide a multitude of sins. I learned quickly that my image was my currency. I went to Woolworths (a former New York convenience store) and bought every shade of darker foundation and made my own mixture to match my skin. I brought my own foundation to every photo shoot and every show since then. That was also the beginning of Iman’s Cosmetics…..I was studying political science at the University of Nairobi in Kenya when I was discovered, so I look at everything in a political way. When I arrived in New York, they said I was a Princess or a goat herder – I was neither,” laughed Iman.

MOTHER’S ADVICENaomi has shot over 1000 magazine covers during her career and broke barriers with advertising campaigns for YSL and Ralph Lauren among her numerous clients. Naomi was the first model of color on the cover of Time Magazine as well as the first to cover Russian, British, and French Vogue. Naomi emphasized; “There were a lot of `no’s’ but I always fought for what I wanted. My mother taught me at a very early age, as a Black girl that I have to be 110% better than the other girls.” Bethann reiterated; “Naomi had the courage to stand up in your face and spoke her mind, demanding what she wanted. She fought so hard, she stood up to the agency, the client – everybody. For being that young I always admired how she always stood up for what she wanted.” 

THE REVOLUTIONLooking back on the Black Girls Coalition, Bethann said: “I was so impressed by so many girls. I was surprised because it started as a celebration of Black models.” Iman saw it as “a rehearsal for the revolution, Bethann was at the helm of that movement.” It was long in coming, but positive change came out of the Black Girls Coalition and more so, with the whole Black Lives Matter Movement. Corporations are trying to be more inclusive. “You never saw Black people in advertisements, not just models, but people,” observed Bethann who was recently named as Gucci’s Executive Advisor of Global Equity and Cultural Engagement, and also as a board member of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America). Alina questioned Bethann as the oracle and conscious of fashion, how does she feel now, about the racial uprising of our time, as it relates to fashion and otherwise. “The greatest thing is that now we have conversations, fortunately, they were cell phones for recordings of the racism. I am happy to hear conversations about that, and it’s very conscious that corporations want to do better. It’s good to want people on your board, but I also want them to hire these people.”

CORPORATE INVOLVEMENT”We have agitators and disruptors,” continued Bethann. “But we will need to be responsible. We should always be able to speak up. Shout out to Aurora James and her 15% push for companies to offer that percentage of space in their retail platforms. Also to Black in Fashion; Lindsey (Peoples, editor-in-chief of Teen Vogue) and her partner to push companies to have more black representation.” 

THE CHANGEBut Naomi plastered another layer to the situation. “I feel a lot of things opening, but there’s still a lot of work to be done. Are you paying them the same? Diversity brands are great, but why are you making it diversity now? Some people are doing it just to cover their asses, and that won’t work.” Iman added, “Mr.Floyd’s daughter said: `My Dad has changed the world.’ What is that change going to be? We need to bring black and brown people in the decision-making process. That’s what equity is. Nobody is getting off the hook anymore, especially in fashion. Everybody needs to be accountable, change needs to come from within, not just cosmetically. We all need accountability and transparency. The rage is justifiable.” 

QUARANTINE QUESTIONAlina asked the ladies what they learned about themselves during the quarantine. Naomi said, in essence, she enjoys being at home alone, because of her usual busy schedule traveling. “I enjoy being with myself. It was a time to reflect and connect with my loved ones and realize what it is that we want to do, and really commit myself to do it. I don’t get bored.” iman said her `Slay at Home’ project became a factor in her life and she started to paint. “I never picked up a paintbrush in my life. My husband was a painter and my daughter paints…I don’t have to be good at anything to get started,” she laughs. Bethann added; “Being at home and being quiet, I’ve had this home for 30 years. We hurt from the pandemic but I’m very grateful for everything that happened…I’m just happy every day that I make it.”

RUN FOREST RUNAlina raised the question from a viewer that made all three ladies burst into uncontrollable laughter. “What would you advise a young Black woman, trying to get into the modeling and fashion industry?” Naomi answered amidst laughter. “Get a good agency, do not get swindled by giving thousands of dollars to a photographer to take your pictures, keep pushing and never give up,” Iman said to give it a five-year window and give it your best, and if it does not work out – then move on. Bethann answered, “Run Forest run…” After a pause and more laughter, she quipped; “Send pictures to agencies. Stay strong, it’s a very competitive industry.”