Kim Jones returned to the naked dress trend of the Nineties with his new spring/summer collection at Fendi Milan fashion week.
Fendi’s spring/summer 2025 collection channeled the ‘barely there’ trend of the Nineties with sheer slips, see-through shifts, and transparent blouses.
The show harked back to iconic sheer looks of the 1990s, such as Kate Moss’ bias-cut 1993 slip and her Alexander McQueen skull dress, both of which she wore without a bra and just a pair of black pants.
Creative director Kim Jones has long hailed Kate Moss as a muse for her strength and individuality. The show’s preoccupation with sheer Nineties minimalism meant that—like Moss’s old dresses—the model’s bodies were the focal point, and the transparent garments acted as mere windows to the individual.
The show featured drop-waist hems, asymmetric hems, and bejeweled embellishments, which – alongside the straight-lined silhouettes – evoked hazy androgyny. Meanwhile, Jones brought graceful and poignant femininity to the collection through muted espresso, stone, and blush pink tones.
Since 2020, the British designer has integrated his practices into Fendi, drawing on its traditions and his home roots.
Additionally, the fashion house’s last spring/summer collection focused on Rome.. This collection seemed to indulge the creative director’s birthplace: England.
The show’s flapper-style dresses are presented on a blank, white canvas of a hall to a soft piano. The collection mingled British courtship with Roman romance.
The mocha muted tones are punctuated with icy blues, conjuring images of a hazy spring day in Britain and the heat of an Italian summer.
Jones’ spring/summer 2025 collection was light and fragile, heavily contrasting with his fall/winter and spring/summer 2024 collections.
The show finally descended into Regency strings as the final looks were displayed in an elevated white cube the models had been walking around.
Additionally, the sparkling slips, silky trench coats, and sheer gowns offered a naivety not previously seen in his collections.
Actors Shailene Woodley and Song’s summer 2024 collections were in the front row.
The show ended with Regency strings as the models displayed the final looks in an elevated white cube.. The sparkling slips, silky trench coats, and sheer gowns offered a naivety not previously seen in his collections.
Moreover, actors Shailene Woodley and Song Kyo sat in the front row, while the model lineup included Mona Tougaard and Anok Yai.
Kim Jones’ show suggests that ‘barely there’ dresses may make a comeback this summer, with feminine frills and delicate jewels softening the hardcore look.
